Walking the Earth

Sierra de San Juan Cosala hike: Circuito El Tepalo

Went down to Jalisco, Mexico around Guadalajara, to visit family member in small town near Lake Chapala. Coming from the airport I noticed that there’s a mountain range seperating Guadalajara from the lake town. After exploring the town for a few days I realized I wanted to go hiking as the mountain is just 4 blocks from the main east- west main road . I had heard that Hikers met- up at a coffee shop where people meet to go hiking. After arriving I was informed there was a group- led, hike every Tuesday & friday and this was Tuesday afternoon. I was bummed because I was totally unprepared having no athletic wear on and no pack to carry water so I left. Later on I remembered that I had a hiking App on my phone and wondered if it had central, or any of Mexico on it. I opened the App and sure enough it had the exact hike so I didn’t need to be led by the hand. Below is a pic looking north towards the Sierra de San Juan Cosala mountain range seen from the town that I had, pretty much, thoroughly explored in the previous few days:

I didn’t have my trekking poles with me but, although this trail was rated “hard”, it was well worn and I had all the time in the world given that it was a 3- mile, loop and the estimated hiking time was 2 hours. I had never hiked above 5k feet before and that was the starting point of this hike. It would be a little over 1k feet elevation gain to top out at 6k feet. Sadly it was the dry season so there would be no falls to see but I was stoked nonetheless to get out and hike. Heres a portion of the trail on the way up.

It was warm 80+ but I had bought a reusable grocery bag with handles the day previous and it occurred to me that I could repurpose that to hold water and a snack or two during the hike. Sure enough, the bag was large enough and the carry straps long enough that I could fit my arms through the loops and use it as a day pack. Yay!!! I didn’t want to buy a day pack when I had one sitting at home and many local people do this hike multiple times/week without any pack. It was my 1st time on this mountain so wanted to make sure I was prepared as far as water and snacks go.

Quite a bit of the trail was like the pic below. Basically straight up. I just took my time and stopped when I needed to and stayed hydrated.

Three quarters of the way up there was a walled- off area to protect it. I didn’t translate the sign but it may have been an area for indigenous use in the past is my guess

At this point of the trail, a local expat emerged from an adjoining trail and said he was going to hike past a catholic(?) shrine that is about 1/2 way up the mountain. I thanked him but wanted to press- on with my pre- selected trail loop that took me to the summit of the mountain (the mountain in the foreground anyway) so I continued upward. Another 20 minutes or so I was on the ridge and walking towards the summit overlook. Here is a cactus on the side of the trail before reaching the overlook. Its about 4 ft high.

Soon afterward I reached the summit overloooking the smallish town:

There is cattle grazing at a couple areas on the mountain top & sides and you have to cross over fences that have special cutouts and trail blazes so Hikers know to use them. I crossed over one to get to the summit ridge but here is one, that Itook a pic of, I encountered on the way down. First one I saw when reaching the ridge I mistakenly identified as a trail closed structure but then after a few moments I realized it was a cross over of private grazing property so all was well.

I never saw any livestock so maybe they only graze them there during the rainy season. As you can see the trail blaze is white and yellow in this instance and the area to step through is marked with yellow and black tape. Going down was pretty uneventful but I remembered how the local Hiker had said that going down your feet are going to slide and they did even though I was wearing Trail- specific Saucony shoes. Normally I wear Altra shoes but I was unaware that there was even hiking in this area so I’m glad I brought my Saucony’s. I decided to leave my Brooks Ghost 12’s at home because the tread was wearing thin and I knew I was going to be doing a lot of walking here

Anyway, glad I got a hike in and I returned in a couple days to do the shorter hike to the shrine. Heres the view from there:

The trail up to here was not on my phone so I followed along and went up rather than take all the switchbacks and right before I was getting ready to turn around and head back, because it was after 4:30 local time, I spotted the shrine. I was really winded after getting to there and I was carrying nothing. This is standing with the shrine behind me. You can see that mountains are on the far side of the lake as well. Anyway, glad I got out of the little city and its cobblestone streets and hiked on some dirt trails.

First summer, AT, section- hike in years

AT S —-> N

30 miles- Ashby Gap —-> Harpers Ferry

3 1/2 days

After upgrading all my gear to ultralight over the winter I was able to get on the trail. I was 2- 3 weeks late due to my friend kept postponing the ride he was going to give me but I didn’t complain because it was a hour and 10 minute ride to the trail head from where we live. The AT parking lot is at Ashby Gap Where the AT crosses Rt 50 near Paris, Virginia. He asked if I minded if his girlfriend came along and I said that’s great. Good thing because she mentioned that I should get some propel to add to my water so we stopped en route went to the store and got it before the trail head. Good thing because everyone on the trail, thru- hikers at least w/their loads myself included , were sweating 😓 buckets

The whole time I planned this hiking trip I didn’t realize that this section of the trail was known as The Roller Roaster Because they were so much elevation changes in a 14 mile stretch. I knew there were elevation changes and the mountains were under 2000 ft BUT The elevation changes were one- after- the- other with no flat spots in- between. 😲 Look at the AllTrails write up and you’ll see what I mean. Luckily I mentioned to my friend where I was going and he relayed that information to me but he said I should be OK. After hearing from him I gave my trip more time to complete it

Turns out, not only was the hiking pretty hard-core, rocks everywhere, elevation changes but the temperature was 90+ degrees. Another downside is there were only maybe 3- 4 lookouts on the entire section. The one good thing I will say about the section of the trail as there was plenty of water During the first 16 or so miles. Actually ended- up carrying probably a liter too much for most of the trip.

End of the Roller Coaster section between Route 50 and Route 7

Lunch on 2nd day after crossing Snickers Gap

I didn’t look at my map after completing the first 12+ mile section of the Roller Coaster and thought I was done. Turns out there was another 3.3 miles to go on the other side of Route seven to reach the northern terminus of the Coaster. The descent to my campground for the 2nd night was all rocks, a “rock garden” as it were, I wish I took a picture of it.

1st lookout just a few hundred yards past my 1st campsite

Campsite for the 2nd night. My Lunar Solo tent made of silnylon. The main tent site was covered with a dead fall so I had to camp off to the side on a slight incline which meant that I had to keep scooting over throughout the night every couple hours. No biggie. There was a water source right there which was nice. Next morning got up and walked up to the 2nd look out

Went off trail on 2nd afternoon to go to the Blackburn Trail Center to see if they had a grill and/or water. I had water but you can never have too much when it’s the beginning of summer in Virginia. Talk to a great bunch of people there seems I was just ahead of the Bubble on my section hike. Gratefully accepted an ice cold Coke and got water and then got back up on the AT. They had well water there that tasted really good

Trail Center w/ well water spigot next to stairwell on right

This part of my section hike was pretty much just up on the ridge the rest of the way very nice old growth forest and boulders here and there

Last lookout before Lesser Shelter. Place called Buzzard Rocks. It was also blue blazed but I didn’t see any easy access to water and it was hot outside and I wanted to make it to the shelter

Lesser shelter, which was really cool, Good condition, lots of room, porch with a bench although they told me at Blackburn Trail Center that the water source was 500 yards down the hill not too easy. I didn’t really need water right then so it was not an issue

Never ended up staying at a shelter I always got there too early in the day so I ended up camping out three nights which I enjoyed. My last campsite was across Route 9 to a campsite called Four Mile campsite. Very flat and cleared nicely downside was it was a “primitive “ site meaning no water source. I knew of this by looking at my map and they told me at Blackburn Trail Center as well so I just drink a little less water than usual. Next morning woke up and walked 4 miles into Harpers Ferry which was a looong 4 miles